First, Probond is a product made by Elmers. It is found in most do-it-yourself super stores like Lowes, Home Depot, and even Wal-Mart. It comes in a black, white and gold bottle. It comes in two sizes, oz. and the large bottle oz. (in the long run-cheaper if you do a lot of wings and I do). It has the consistency of pancake syrup. It is a little thicker than some of the finishing resins out there, so it doesnít soak into the wood or foam quite as quickly. It is water-soluble so itís easier to work with than epoxy. With epoxy I usually have to have a bottle of alcohol, latex gloves and baby powder standing by (thatís right-baby powder). Along with epoxy, Probond is easy to take off of your hands with baby powder and if you just donít want glue to ever touch your hands, I guess you may want to still use the gloves. But at any rate, itís easier to wash off. As with epoxy however, you never want to let this stuff spill on your wood building surface. You will never scrap it off or pull it up without pulling up some of your building board.
Everybody who has used it out there has his or her own theory for
using it. First of all, the
directions on the bottle say to wet the surface before you use it.
I have found that this is not necessary. The humidity here in S.C. is usually enough to negate the use
of water. I first start with the usual for sheeting wings.
A large (depending on the size wing panel) flat clean building
surface, wax paper, the glue, masking tape, and whatever form of weight
that you want to use. I use
several sheets of particleboard leftover from jigs that I built for
Keep in mine that the more weight that you can put on the wing,
the less glue you have to use. I have done tests to prove this theory. I
then lay the panel onto the wing skin.
Put glue on the other skin in the same fashion and lay on top.
Put more wax paper on and lay the other saddle on top.
I have also used this glue for capping the wing off. There is one word of caution however, excess. Donít put a lot of glue on your caps. I usually put the glue on and then use my finger to squeegee most of the glue back off. If you donít do this, the glue has a natural tendency to foam-up and may push the caps off of the wing panel to far; creating a wing panel that may not be square on the tip, etc.
Letís talk about what tests have proven. First, Probond has a tendency to seep down into the foam about Ĺ inch into the foam. You will not get this with contact cement. Epoxy seeps down into the foam but not as far and is heavier. Spray 77 is easy to use and light but tests have shown that in the sun and on larger planes it has a tendency to delaminate. Obviously because of time-to-work reasons, odorless C.A. is not good for sheeting large surfaces such as wings but may be better for wing tip capping and small areas.
Keep in mind that the object here is to use as little glue as possible and as much weight as possible. Remember that for a 1000 sq. in. wing panel, that 1000 lbs. is only 1 lb. per sq. in.!!!! Remember also that you must put in your phenolic tube support before sheeting your wing! Yep, thatís right I have done it. Not on a customers plane of course. Another tip, have all of your items that you will need ready and be totally prepared before starting your wing sheeting project. There is nothing worse than starting and not realizing that you donít have enough weight ready or that you donít have enough glue. I hope that your next project goes well and remember, ďWe build, You fly!Ē If you have any questions send us an email.
Big Toys for Big Boys